I found a designer cowhide bench I actually wanted. Then I saw the price: around $3,000. I did the math out loud while my cat walked across my foot — and quietly closed the tab.
A couple of months earlier I’d built a modern console table for our entryway, and it had been sitting there waiting for a bench to pair with. I kept telling myself I’d wait for a sale. The sale never came. So I decided to build my own — and the best part of making your own furniture is that you control the size, the finish, and the hide, without the markup.
Here’s the part I wish I’d known before I started: this is a genuinely beginner project. One sheet of plywood, a few 2x4s, and a lot of pulling-tight-and-stapling. No fancy joinery required.
What I Built, and Where It Goes
My version is a low, backless bench in a modern-rustic style — a simple wood frame, real cowhide upholstery, and slim metal legs. It lives in our entryway now, which is exactly where it earns its keep. But it’s not a one-trick piece. It works at the foot of a bed, tucked behind a sofa, or against a bare wall that needs a bit of personality.
What You’ll Need
Tools
- Miter saw (a circular saw or hand saw works too)
- Pocket-hole jig (I used a Kreg Jig — any pocket-hole jig will do)
- Drill
- Stapler (manual, electric, or cordless)
Supplies
- 1 sheet of 1/2″ x 48″ x 48″ hardwood plywood
- 4 pieces of 2x4x8
- 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1″ staples
- 4 metal feet
- Batting
- Cowhide (a good imitation works fine if you’re not into the real thing)
Measurements are in inches. Rough metric equivalents: 48″ is about 122 cm, and 1/2″ plywood is about 12 mm. The free plans below give you the full cut list, so you don’t have to guess anything.
Step 1: Build the Two Side Frames
Cut the side frame pieces to size, then drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes at the ends of the vertical pieces.
Screw the verticals to the horizontals with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. You’re building two identical side assemblies — do one, check it’s square, then repeat.
Step 2: Connect the Long Sides
Cut the long frame pieces to length and drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends. Attach them to the side assemblies with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue.
Step 3: Close the Frame
Repeat on the opposite side and you have a full rectangular bench frame. Flip it over and check all four corners are tight. If a joint feels loose, add a dab of glue and re-tighten the screw now — it’s a lot easier than later.
Step 4: Add a Center Support (Optional)
This piece is optional. My bench is mostly decorative, so I skipped it. If yours will be sat on regularly, cut a center support, drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends, and screw it between the two long supports with 2 1/2″ screws and glue. It adds real strength for a few minutes of work.
Step 5: Attach the Plywood Panels
Cut the side plywood pieces to size and staple them to each end of the frame with 1″ staples.
Then the front and back panels: measure, cut, and attach with 1″ staples plus wood glue, pressing them tight against the frame.
Finally, cut the top panel to fit and attach it the same way. This is now your solid base for the upholstery — everything after this is soft stuff.
Step 6: Add the Batting
Cut the batting to size and lay it over the top and sides. Staple it to the underside of the plywood, pulling firmly as you go so the surface stays smooth and drum-tight.
Work one side at a time and leave the corners for last. At each corner, trim the excess along the length of the corner, then fold and staple the tucks flat. It’s the same tucking you’d do on a bed, just with a stapler.
Step 7: Staple On the Cowhide
Lay the hide over the bench, starting with the sides. Pull it tight and staple along the underside of the frame, working the same way you did with the batting. Keep pulling as you go — that tension is the difference between ‘nice’ and ‘looks like a pro did it.’
Step 8: Finish the Corners
Fold the corners neatly — like wrapping a gift. Staple the first fold down, then fold the second layer over to cover the staples and secure it to the underside. Four corners, and the upholstery is done.
Step 9: Attach the Metal Legs
Flip the finished bench over and screw on the metal feet. That’s it. The bench is built.
I sourced the feet and the hide online — both are easy to find, and a good imitation hide will hold up perfectly well if you want to keep the cost down.
The Style Math
The inspiration bench was around $3,000. My build came in at about $200. That’s a $2,800 difference for the same silhouette — and you get to pick the exact hide and leg style instead of hoping the store has what you want in stock.
Free Printable Plans
Ready to build your own? The free printable plans include the full cut list, step-by-step instructions, and a shopping list, so you can go straight from the sofa to the workshop.
FAQ
Can beginners really build this bench?
Yes. The frame is basic pocket-hole joinery, and the upholstery is pull-and-staple. If you can use a drill and follow a cut list, you can build this. The hide wrapping takes patience, not skill.
Do I have to use real cowhide?
No. A good imitation cowhide works fine and costs less. The source project used real hide, but the technique is identical either way — just make sure whatever you pick is wide enough to wrap the whole bench.
Where can I put this bench?
Entryway, foot of the bed, behind a sofa, or against a bare wall. It’s a backless, low-profile piece, so it works anywhere you need a sit-down that doesn’t fight the room’s other furniture.
Maya’s take: I used to buy the trend first and ask questions later. This bench is the project that finally made me do the math first — and the math was very much on my side.
More projects from the entryway: DIY Modern Console Table and a Renter-Friendly Accent Wall. For styling inspiration, see my entryway style guide.